Why This French City Near The German Border Is Europe’s Most Magical Christmas Getaway

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When the leaves drop and the first hard freeze hits the ground back home in Louisville, Liz and I usually start chasing the sun. But if there’s one thing that’ll get us on a plane headed for colder weather, it’s the European holiday season. You can keep the crowded streets of Paris or London. If you want a town that looks like it was ripped straight out of a snow globe, you need to head to the Alsace region of France.

Colmar sits right near the German border, and it takes Christmas very seriously. By late November, the whole town smells like roasted chestnuts and hot spiced wine. It’s the best festive getaway on the continent.

If you want to plan a holiday trip this year, read on for the top markets, what to do, where to stay, and when to book your flights.

Top Christmas Markets

My wife Liz and I spend a lot of time planning out our market strategy before we even land. Colmar doesn’t just have one big market stuffed into a single square; the town fragments into different themed villages. You can grab a hot drink and spend all day bouncing from one setup to the next. Here are the spots you need to hit.

• Place des Dominicains: You find this market wrapped around an old 14th-century church. The backdrop alone is worth the trip. The stained glass windows light up the square at night, setting a great mood while you walk through the wooden stalls. Grab a cup of vin chaud (mulled wine) to keep your hands warm while you check out the local ornaments and crafts.
• Place de l’Ancienne Douane: Just a five-minute walk away, you hit the square around the Schwendi Fountain. This market sets up right next to the Koïfhus, an old historic customs house. If the weather gets too cold, duck inside the building. You’ll find local artisans selling hand-blown glass, detailed woodwork, and cool ceramics.
• Petite Venise (Little Venice): This is the postcard shot of Colmar. The canals reflect the holiday lights, and the old half-timbered houses are covered in pine boughs and decorations. Liz and I love walking through this area at night. It caters a bit more to families, but it is the perfect spot to buy a bag of bredele—traditional Alsatian Christmas cookies—and just take in the scenery.
• Place Jeanne d’Arc: If you travel for food, this is your market. It is set up to look like a traditional Alsatian village and focuses on local gastronomy. Swap the hot wine for a local craft beer. You can fill up on cured meats, fresh cheeses, and foie gras straight from the local vendors.

Other Festive Things to Do

You can only look at so many wooden ornaments before you need a break. The best part about visiting this region is that the holiday spirit spills out into the local food and culture. When my feet get cold from walking the cobblestones, we always find an excuse to duck inside and explore the rest of the town.

• Walk the city center at dusk: Colmar doesn’t hold back on the holiday lights. Thousands of LEDs line the streets. They project lights onto the historic buildings, highlighting the wild architectural lines of the old houses. The best time to see it is right at dusk when the sky turns deep blue and the streetlamps kick on.
• Warm up in a cozy Winstub: A Winstub is a traditional Alsatian wine tavern, and they are the best places to thaw out after a few hours in the cold. I like Winstub Brenner for a heavy lunch of local classics. You sit in a warm, wood-paneled dining room and drink a glass of Riesling. Also, don’t leave town without stopping at a bakery for a fresh Kugelhopf, a classic yeast cake baked in a special pan.
• Shop for local pottery and wine: The Alsace region produces incredible ceramics. You can find shops all over town selling pottery decorated with local floral designs or storks. The area is also world-famous for its wine. Drop into a local cave (wine cellar) and pick up a bottle of Gewürztraminer or Pinot Gris for a great holiday gift.

Top Stays

Booking a room here during December requires some planning. The best hotels fill up months in advance, but locking down a central location means you can drop off your shopping bags and warm up between market runs. Here are the spots that get it right.

• La Maison des Têtes: This is one of the most historic hotels in town, famous for the 106 sculpted heads decorating the front of the 17th-century building. They deck the halls inside and out for the holidays. If you stay here, book a table at their Restaurant Girardin for a top-tier French dinner.
• Hôtel Le Colombier: If you want to stay right in the middle of the Little Venice district, book a room here. It puts you just a short walk from the main markets. I love how they blend modern design with the old 16th-century architecture, and the inner courtyard feels like a private retreat away from the crowds.
• Le Chambard (Kaysersberg): If you don’t mind staying just outside the city, take a short drive to the nearby village of Kaysersberg. Le Chambard is a luxury spot that gives you a quieter home base. Grab a seat in the lounge for a glass of wine, and make sure you get a reservation at La Table d’Olivier Nasti, their Michelin-starred restaurant.

When to Visit

To catch the markets in full swing, plan your trip between late November and Christmas. The Colmar markets usually open around November 26 and wrap up by December 29.

If you are staying over the Christmas holiday, keep in mind that most stores and restaurants shut down early on Christmas Eve and stay closed on Christmas Day.

If you want a hot meal on those days, you need to book a dinner reservation weeks in advance.

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