If you’ve developed a habit of reading the latest Travel Off Path issue as you sip your morning coffee for the past 7 years, you know by now we have a soft spot for uncovering hidden gems in Europe’s top tourism hotspots.
Italy is probably the one we go back to every chance we get.
From the most remote island in Sicily, closer to Africa than it is to Europe, to the snow-capped peaks of the Dolomites and their fairytale medieval towns, we’ve truly been boots on the ground in Italy, leaving no stone unturned.
This car-free island town in the middle of a crystal-clear alpine lake, only a 2-hour drive from the jam-packed Como, yet without any of the same crowds, might just take the crown, though:
Europe’s Largest Inhabited Lake Town
If you’re heading to the Italian Great Lakes and you’re still unsure whether Como or Garda are the right pick, how about… none of them?
Lake Iseo is the lakeside retreat Milan locals themselves prefer over the usual tourist-packed alternatives. Why? It’s quieter, far more authentic, and it’s home to Monte Isola, one of the most unique destinations you can visit in Italy.
What makes it special, you ask?
For starters, it’s the largest inhabited lake island in Europe, measuring about 5 square miles, with approximately 1,800 residents. Due to the absence of bridges connecting it to the bankside, and the narrow, stone-paved roads, there are virtually no cars, either:
Monte Isola is one of the last few commune in Italy where downtown traffic isn’t as problem. Only residents’ scooters, a small public bus, and a handful of service vehicles are allowed to circulate. Other than that, you have to get aorund by bike or on foot.
Even the main harbor, the picturesque Peschiera Maraglio, feels like a medieval settlement frozen in time: no incessant honking and dodging vespas: boat arrivals, church bells, and birds are the only background noise you’ll hear.
The Perfect Italian Lakeside Retreat
Monte Isola is relatively flat around the shoreline, and it tooks only 3–5 hours to biking the full loop of the island, including a scenic stop hither and thither.
Now, if you’re hoping to find sandy beaches and warm Mediterranean waters, this isn’t the right Italy for you. Lake Iseo is an alpine body of water, meaning the water is gelid, to put it mildly, so keep that in mind if you’re planning on diving head-first at the first sight of a wooden pier.
Monte Isola itself is all about lakeside coves, crystal-clear freshwater streaming down straight from the surrounding alps, and postcard-ready villages. Yep, although the island itself is treated as a single municipality, there are actually 4 or 5 different towns you can visit.
Peschiera Maraglio is the main arrival point, and the exact picture you think when you picture the Italian lakeside: colorful fishermen’s houses, a flower-filled waterfront, and family-owned trattorie spilling onto the promenade.
The prettiest village on Monte Isola, however, has to be Carzano:
Monte Isola’s Secret Spots Unveiled
A lot quieter than Peschiera Maraglio, it has pastel-colored houses, peaceful piazzette bordered by tiny cafés, and an incredibly-photogenic waterfront, bobbing wooden boats and all.
From Peschiera, it takes roughly 10 minutes to bike here, or around half an hour if you’re exploring on foot.
Carzano is also where you’ll find the best seafood on the island—source: our own Travel Off Path correspondents—particularly at Ristorante Locanda Al Lago. Open since 1948, and set on a stilted lakeside terrace, they serve a killer sardine essiccate.
This is the island’s must-try specialty, by the way, sun-dried lake sardines usually served with a spoonful of polenta.
If you’re hoping for a slow afternoon after lunch, Sensole is the spot to go. The main ‘beach town’, it sits on the western shore, where most boat tours don’t reach, and it has several grassy patches that allow easy access to the water.
A Quick Intermission
In case you’re not aware, Europe recently started fingerprinting foreign travelers, and this includes U.S. citizens, upon arrival, and on top of the usual border control delays and the summer lines, describing the situation as catastrophic would be an understatement.
Italy is no exception.
In select entry points, like Milan Linate and Lisbon Airport, wait times have exceeded six hours in certain days.
If you’re unsure which travel rules apply flying to this or that European country, the easiest way to avoid unpleasant surprises upon landing is running a little destination-check on the Entry Requirement Checker.
Hike The Island’s Highest Point
Monte Isola is practically a mountain rising out of Lake Iseo, and climbing to the highest point is an absolute must-do for two reasons:
It’s where the administrative center, and a small capital of the sorts, Siviano is located. It has narrow alleys, stone staircases, and traditional houses that feel untouched since the Middle Ages. It’s one of the nicest villages for simply wandering and taking in the panoramic lake views.
The cherry on top is Cure.
This is the highest village on the island, and it feels distinctly different from the lakeside settlements. Instead of harbors and promenades, it’s all about stone cottages, quiet lanes, and charming squares shaded by chestnut trees.
Don’t miss the Sanctuary of Madonna della Ceriola, perhaps the most iconic landmark on Monte Isola, perched nearly 2,000 feet above lake level, and a centuries-old place of pilgrimage surrounded by woodland.
The only downside? It takes around 1h30 to get to the monastery from Peschiera if you’re climbing at a relaxed pace. Alternatively, there’s a bus that runs from Peschiera to Cure. From the highest village, it’s a much-shorter 20 minute walk.
How Safe Is Italy Right Now?
Wondering how safe Italy is to visit this summer?
Here’s what travelers have been reporting on the Traveler Safety Index, which measures overall traveler safety perceptions across different destinations.
Right now, Italy scores 93 out of 100, putting it among the highest-rated countries in Europe.
Far More Authentic & Cheaper Than Como
Monte Isola is not exactly a secret among Italians, so if you’re coming on the weekends, especially in summer, it can feel a little busier than usual. That being said, visitor numbers are nowhere near the Como or Garda crowds.
Unlike Bellagio or Sirmione, people actually live normal lives here: you’ll pass fishermen repairing nets, local nonni chatting on the piazza, an dolive groves that have been cultivated for centuries.
Is it cheaper?
Generally speaking, yes, compared to other Italian lake towns. Hotels are usually 20 to 40% cheaper—a triple room with private bathroom at a rustic guesthouse will set you back $110 in the peak of summer—and restaurants tend to be less… ahem, American-priced, if you know what we mean.
Smaller purchases like coffee, glasses of wine, and souvenirs are noticeably more affordable, and even ferries are inexpesnive because crossings are short.
Sulzano is the main gateway to Monte Isola, with the journey taking about 5 minutes and costing about €2.60 ($3) one-way per person. Boats typically dock at Peschiera.
Alternatively, getting to Carzano directly, you can travel from Sale Marasino. The crossing takes around 20 minutes.
Ferries are also available from Iseo Town, the main town on the region, though it takes longer and it may be less convenient for a day trip.
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